Archive for April, 2010

Tasting Note: William Fevre 2007 Chablis, France


2010
04.20

Tonight is a night for the French Chablis lovers…. c’est moi inclus.

Tasted from a half-bottle bought from Cru Bar in James St, Fortitude Valley.

Appearance:  a moderate straw colour, clear, no faults.

Nose: restrained aromas of custard apple, vanilla, butter, baked apple, jasmine flowers, orange blossom and a gentle herbaceousness.  Delicate, refined and unobtrusive.  A fairly broad, general nose but the butteriness from malo fermentation is evident and incredibly pleasant.

Palate:  soft acidity, again not too pressing, crisp but round.  Excellent toasty character on the finish, well balanced alcoholic backbone, medium-full bodied.  Flavours include compote lemon, grapefruit, baked pastries, vanillin, sour apricot and mild banana.  Decent palate weight with a slight slatey character – nice minerality, in Australian terms!  A medium finish with moderately warm pungency.

Conclusive remarks:  This is a very pleasant, introductory level Chablis that will appeal to most Chardonnay and dry Riesling drinkers.  A well made wine, it is both accessible (price) and would match baked white fish well.  89 points.

Review of James St Bistro, Fortitude Valley, Q 4006


2010
04.20

It was cool and overcast this afternoon and we’d just dropped some wine off to a colleague and felt peckish.

After parking at the James St Markets we had a quick look around the fresh fruit providore and had a nice coffee at Spoon Cafe.  Ducking across the road, we visited James St Bistro.  It was so nice to hear a familiar voice greeting us at the door – a past colleague and trusted waiter, Anthony.  He wouldn’t admit to it, but he’s an all-round nice guy who would do anything to ensure his customers had a great experience.  Unfortunately we had come just on the cusp of shift changeover and he was home-bound.   After making our fantastic coffees, Anthony headed home and we were served for about an hour by two very competent and happy waitstaff – a perfect juxtaposition for the rainy weather.

The lunch menu is well endowed with a mix of Asian, Australian and more classic European dishes.  There is a great tasting option where you can select either 3, 6 or 8 options from the list, for a set price.  That was immediately the path I wanted to walk down.  The wine list was sufficient, but nothing super special.  So, we ordered.

After almost no time at all, out came the entree:  Fresh Turkish pide (bread) with dukkha, hummus and olive oil ($6.90 pp).  Pleasantly fresh and well presented, it went down a treat with my mid-afternoon G&T.  My dining partner ordered a fantastic fresh juice and was even able to combine his favourite four fruits into the one drink.

While waiting for our mains (and it wasn’t a long wait at all), we had a look around and listened to other customers.  A pleasantly clean and open-faced venue, James St Bistro has a lovely long table with plump, cushiony chairs.  There was almost no noise from the kitchen, only the hum of traffic and chatter in the background.  A well designed place, we thought.

The main meals arrived promptly, but sadly the waiter did not explain the dish again as he presented them.  Call me old fashioned, but I like that aspect of service, particularly because it reminds me of the flavours I’m about to enjoy.

I sampled the tasting plate of 3 options:  peking duck rolls with pickled cucumber and hoisin sauce; chickpea and soybean falafel with tahini yoghurt; marinated olives & grissini ($16.50 for 3).  Each item was well prepared and beautifully presented on the platter, but the olives were a slight let down.  To serve olives alongside other beautiful foods of exquisite taste, I feel that the marinade mixture must express some extra flavour that the olives do not themselves already naturally possess.  Unfortunately, the only flavour we could taste was that of cold-pressed olive oil.  That said, the duck rolls and falafels were simply divine and a perfect combination together.

My dining partner tried the spaghetti al nero which came with 4 large pan friend prawns, garlic, chilli, flat leaf parsley and breadcrumbs.  He noted that while the prawns were perfectly cooked and flavoursome, the dish really needed some kind of liquid or sauce component other than extra virgin olive oil to bring all of the flavours together.  It was a bit too oily (it literally shined on the plate) and perhaps that dulled the flavours of the fresh herbs which should have been more prominant.  Overall, not a bad dish, just not a complete one.

We decided to avoid the delicious cakes in the display cabinet, despite the fact they looked amazing.  We have had too much cake this week, having dined at Freestyle Tout already.

Overall, the service was proficient and kind (but it’d be nice to hear the explanations of dishes as they are served), the food was mostly flavoursome and appropriately priced, but the wine and drinks list could do with some greater attention, especially considering the location.

James St Bistro is located at 39 James St, Fortitude Valley, Queensland, 4006.  Contact 07 3852 5155.  Website: http://www.jamesstreetbistro.com.au

We recommend a visit if you want nice food in a relaxed setting before visiting the Palace Centro Cinemas next door.

What’s more important? Being convincing, or being right?


2010
04.08

Last week we held an online conference with 32 wine buyers in the USA.  One restaurateur said, “Gosh you’re lucky in Oz, there are some real schmucks pitching wine over here that don’t have a clue what they’re selling” (quoted with permission).  Strong words.  While we might be lucky by contrast, the situation here is still not ideal.  We discussed how in both continents too many wine marketers start off on the wrong foot with new clients by unnecessarily talking up their portfolios, the awards their wines have won and even highlighting the other fancy restaurants their wine is stocked at. Apparently wine buyers see through this schmuckery.. gee, and who would have thought?

Here are some things I’d like to see wine marketers adopt:

  • talk more with buyers and help quash the wrongful belief that ‘to know wine, one must speak the language’… this is counter productive to sales
  • start more professional journals, newsletters and online blogs… but have more to say than “please, please buy my wine”
  • improve access to Australian wines for the average drinker overseas
  • stop using ‘sales talk’ every time you visit a client.  Instead, let them taste the wine and buy on a wine’s merits alone – put little pressure on the burgeoning wine market to produce only appealing wines
  • stop thinking that because a wine has won an award in an abscure, regional wine show that this immediately qualifies it for easy sale
  • use your networks to promote Australian wine overseas, give something back to your industry
  • if you review wine, be honest in your writing.  Reviewers that dance around the truth (or even worse, don’t sample the wine they are reviewing!) are not worth reading
  • help winemakers in the regions you represent work together and open up new channels for inter-business collaboration.

In line with this, WineBox Co. will publish a professional wine industry journal from July 2010.  It will be available freely for a year.

Finally, there are no right or wrongs in talking about wine.  Opinions are as many and varied as are tastebuds.  Wine is subjective and like art it might be remiss of marketing to objectify it.  We must be comfortable with this.  Indeed, we should relish it.