Posts Tagged ‘review’

TN: 2008 Jamieson’s Run Merlot, Limestone Coast, SA


2010
08.27

Picked up a bottle tonight from THE WINE ROOM in Ashgrove, Brisbane.

This wine is quite dark plum in colour with obvious semi-filtering, nice depth of colour to the edge.  Very much still showing its youth.

A little restrictive on the nose, I feel that mostly new oak has been used to mature this wine.  Nice, lengthy acidic backbone and clear warmth of alcohol which as I read sat at 14%.

Moderate spice components but a great deal less than I expected.  I think the parcels of Merlot grapes that were chosen for this vintage might not have been the very best.  Moderate finish with a lifted plum character.  Well backed with chalky tannins but perhaps  a little over-riding for this fruit flavour mix.

Not a bad wine, just not a great wine.  87 points.

Once bitten…… amateur wine reviews


2010
07.26

Even as a professional wine writer, I am far too apologetic (though sometimes I wonder why).

It struck me today that people who create things (art, music, food, wine or anything really) tend to champion their creations so strongly that they are easily blinded by criticism, even the constructive kind.

Call me a zealot, but I’m a sucker for criticism and feedback.  I believe that open communication and constructive commentary on products and services is how we can best improve them.  For this single reason, I love open internet forums where we can talk about wine… this blog, for example.

I might be nuts, but I’ve noticed lately that some winemakers defend their wines to the point of chastising reviewers for publishing their honest thoughts.  Sure, I understand that if a wine receives a few ‘bad reviews’ from various Mr Joe-Nobodies then some punters will come across those reviews and disembark from the purchasing bandwagon.  To be honest, if amateur reviewers agree en masse that a wine isn’t great, then chances are you shouldn’t buy it either.  Despite the negative effect criticism may have on wine sales, wine (like art) is subjective and people are absolutely entitled to voice their opinions (even the negative ones).

Flicking through an online wine forum last week, I was confronted by a winemaker’s comments to an ‘amateur reviewer’.  The winemaker came from an obscure part of South Africa.  He chastised Mr Amateur Reviewer for negatively reviewing his most expensive wine and publishing the notes online.  He said “Why did you say my wine had an unnecessarily strong acidic backbone?  Why do you think the wine doesn’t taste ready to drink yet?  Great, now nobody will buy it in Australia”.  (Well, not quite true sir.  If I may butt in, Aussies would still buy your wine here to cellar it…if it weren’t so overpriced).

Anyway, Mr Amateur Reviewer correctly asserted that a strong acidic backbone is necessary in nearly all good wines.  Without sufficient acidity most wines (especially whites) fall flat on the palate and are ‘boring’.  He also highlighted that he still gave the wine 92 points (of 100) – a fairly high score.  For Mr Amateur Reviewer, the wine was far too acidic for the varietal.  He felt that the acidity and high alcohol content overpowered the fruit flavours and aromas, so that’s what he wrote.  I reckon that’s pretty fair – if that’s what he truly tasted in the glass.

It’s a bit disappointing Mr Winemaker didn’t think to ask how or why Mr Amateur Reviewer thought those things.

Personally, I dislike winemakers who arc up over negative reviews.  Firstly, your wine should be good and reliable – no excuses.  If it’s not, then throw the blasted stuff out during production.  Bad wine should never reach the bottling process.  Secondly, if you do receive a few negative reviews why not find out why, and then work on correcting the issues next vintage.  Never, ever chastise your punters, especially those who are active enough to write about your wines.  What do you think they’re going to write about next?  Yes, that’s right… your bad behaviour!  Even if the wine issues are purely a seasonal concern, it would be pragmatic to understand the basis for any negative opinions.  From the next vintage, work to correctly segment your market and you can receive valuable returns by way of positive reviews by happy punters.  Please them, don’t chastise them.

So, my dear readers, I want to put it out there that when you’re reading a review, try to remember that it’s only the opinion of (usually) one person.  As such, don’t decide whether to purchase based only on that single review.  Read around, shop around.. whatever you want to call it – get educated by your peers online.

TN: 06 Tim Adams Botrytis Affected Riesling, Clare Valley, SA


2010
06.22

Screw closure.  375mL. 12.0% ABV.  85 g/L residual sugar.

This wine has a fairly deep golden hue to its body and rim, is rather viscous but very clear and bright.

The nose deeply resembles the characteristics of young Riesling grapes, particularly the alluding to delicate lime and mineral aromas.  It’s clear that the botrytis has added another layer of aromatics, particularly those of orange blossom, orange oil and jasmine.  A slight hint of rancio character, which is strange but interesting (in a good way).  Deep of nose aromas are backed by slight vanillin scents.

The palate immediately states the sweetness (from the high residual sugar levels left after fermentation).  With adequate, but slightly lower than expected acidity, there seems to be a mild mandarin flavour and a creaminess I usually associate with MLF.  Good balance along the palate, there is a small and delicious amount of delicate white grape tannin here, binding itself to the orange blossom flavours of the botrytis effect.  Some tartness to the wine, but the sweetness really overides this to a great extent.  Very gentle flavours on the finish of white chocolate, stewed citrus fruits, burnt toffee and hazelnuts.  Interesting palate – but don’t serve it too cold or you’ll miss out on the smaller flavours.

89 points.

TN: 06 Shot Bull Shiraz, McLaren Vale SA


2010
06.11

Rather overt French oak influence on this shiraz, particularly well rounded and evidently will age well until 2020+.  Firm, dry tanins and a pleasant bitter back palate.  The final notes to leave are those of chocolate, clove and nutmeg.  Hints of white pepper spice, red currants and raspberries.  Excellent length, moderate acidity and a warming alcohol makes this a perfect Shiraz complement to slow food like lamb

The Wine... nice eyes!

tagine.

I’m hypersensitive to sulphites in a wine – this may have a relatively high concentration.  Tread with caution if you suffer from suphite allergies.

89 pts.

Sirocco Noosa, Queensland riverfront dining


2010
06.04

Sirocco is an absolute culinary gem in the centre of Noosaville.  Despite having uninterrupted views over the ever-relaxing Noosa River, I found it hard to keep my eyes off the plate.  With African and Mediterranean inspired food and decor, it’s a real pleasure to taste food so richly flavoursome, yet so elegantly presented.

You all know I’m a big fan of decent food, it’s really no secret.  But this place kind of is a secret.  At least to tourists it is.  It does get very busy at times, but the service, food and views are all pristinely co-ordinated and over a number of visits I’ve never been let down.  You’d be silly not to follow the locals and eat at Sirocco.

Be careful – it’s hard not to get hooked.  I recommend you try the tagine of Dakota Vale organic duck maryland with broccolini, medjool dates, fresh orange and cinnamon quill – served with saffron, orange and toasted almond cous cous.

Absolutely outstanding.  I’ll be there in two week’s time for breakky!

www.sirocconoosa.com.au

ph 07 54 556 688

Review: Thai Ayuthaya, Kelvin Grove QLD


2010
05.27

Staring at the plush Thai-inspired front door, we felt a sudden endorphin rush.  The venue is a bit intimidating to look at, with its high spire-like roofing.  Once inside, that changes and you’re immediately filled with confidence that this place knows what they’re doing.

Water features, lovely table settings, smiling and friendly waitstaff are excellent highlights.  The complimentary chilli infused rice crackers on arrival were a fantastic touch.  Certainly whet our appetites.

For entree, I sampled the Pla Muag Tod – basically deep fried calamari with a sweet chilli sauce.  Very well presented, flavoursome and a reasonable portion.  I had this with a glass of d’Arenberg’s Olive Grove Chardonnay.  My dining partner sampled a Prawn Tom Yum soup.  He wasn’t convinced it was the best he has had – but wasn’t overly disappointed, either.  The size was a little lacking, considering the simple ingredients.  To accompany his entree, he had a Pina Colada.  Refreshing.

For mains, we shared Pad Gratium Prik - stir fried pork with garlic and roasted peppercorn.  Very pleasant indeed.  We also shared a traditional Gang Keow Wan - chicken green curry and sampled their coconut rice.  While tasty, we admit Little Lily Thai at the QUT Kelvin Grove hub does a better coconut rice.  The mains were delicious, contained a decent amount of meat product in each (always a bonus in Asian cuisine for me) and were well priced.

I sampled the West Cape Howe Cabernet Merlot and we had freshly squeezed orange juice to assist digestion afterwards.  We would have stayed for dessert, but we couldn’t fit it!  If going in a group, share some dishes together.  They really are quite well sized.

Appetisers varied $6-$9.  Mains $16-$25.

Service was fast, incredibly friendly and very well trained.  Although very good, I got the feeling that the staff were not used to be ‘busy’.  There were no errors – however they did apologise a few times for the wait on food.  In my eyes, there was no wait on food or drinks – certainly not enough to apologise for.  This confidence will come in time, I hope.  The team works well together.

Highly recommended.

Thai Ayuthaya is located at 252 Kelvin Grove Road, Kelvin Grove Q 4059.

Please phone 07 3356 9926 for RESERVATIONS or book online: http://www.thaiayuthaya.com.au/

Review – 16th on Park, Park Road, Milton, Queensland


2010
05.06

For those that don’t know me well, seldom do I write a formal review of a restaurant – but here are some honest thoughts on 16th on Park, located at 16 Park Rd, Milton, Queensland 4064.

Let me set the scene.  The night prior to my visit, I did some ‘googling’ to find a suitable place to meet someone I was seeing for the first time.  First impressions matter a lot, so I figured I’d go somewhere that a) the coffee would be good, b) the service would be friendly, prompt but relaxed and c) the food would be reliably tasty.  I wanted to try somewhere different this time – the same old haunts can be a bit too familiar when meeting someone new.

My first qualm is with their website.  Although seductively designed, it doesn’t contain some seriously important information – the opening hours!  Relying on a review website, I gauged they would most likely be open and took a chance.  Restaurants and cafes should understand that if a customer is browsing the website, they want all the information needed to dine in that venue on the website.  Call me crazy, but the last thing I need in my busy schedule is to have to call the venue and ask them for their opening hours, after already spending a good 5 minutes looking for the hours online.  A good restaurant website lists opening hours.

We went for a brief coffee and lunch on a Wednesday.  I don’t know if it was the rainy weather that week, or perhaps a severe dislike for people – but our waitress was truly the rudest I have had in Brisbane, Sydney or Melbourne to date…!  I do not say this lightly.

I arrived to find my guest waiting on a comfortable sofa – nice decor, I thought.  We opted to move to a table so we would be more comfortable eating and drinking.  Being caught up in introducing ourselves, we forgot to take our menus with us to the table.  Rather ungraciously, the ill-mannered waitress brought the menus to us and, I quote almost verbatim here, said in a sarcastic tone: “It’s ok, I’ll just walk the menus over to you then.”  If I was with someone I had known better, we would have walked out right then.

Needing some liquid salvation after being abused, we ordered coffee.  (Perhaps we should have opened a bottle of red…)  For the following five minutes, she returned three times, each time I requested more time as we were catching up.  I’m not a fan of waitstaff that have no intuition when it comes to table service, but this was just plain ignorance.  So, to remove any doubt, generally if a customer asks for more time, they mean it.

We ordered and the food came out within a decent amount of time.  I had the Chicken and Pumpkin Risotto with Maple, Pine Nuts and Sage.  My dining partner sampled the House Made Potato Gnocchi with Slow Roasted Tomatoes, Chorizo, Spinach and Bacon.

Despite the risotto being averagely prepared and under-seasoned, the flavour was actually pretty nice.  My partner seemed to enjoy the gnocchi, though there seemed a bit too much chorizo and bacon which I’m sure would have left a fatty mess in his mouth.  The waitstaff wouldn’t know what we thought though unless she read this post, because she didn’t even bother to ask us how the meals were, nor provide any follow-up service.  Honestly, she could have gotten another round of coffees out of us, if only she had bothered to ask.  Rather unimpressive, even for a Brisbane cafe.

The coffee was not too bad and it was presented very quickly, considering the lack of staff and the number of lunch diners.

I have to make a business observation here – strange, I know.

Having worked both in Australia and overseas for very good restaurants that hold themselves out as specialists in desserts and patisserie, I’ve come to understand how money is made in these places.  I was surprised that only a lunch menu was offered to us at the table.  I think, absolutely in fact, that a dessert menu should have been offered at the same time.  In fact, if it had we probably would have selected from it, rather than the savoury menu.  From a financial point of view, there is an enormous profit margin to be made on desserts, compared to savoury meals which cost more to prepare.  By not presenting the dessert menu as an available “first-choice” option, it also dilutes the impressive marketing image the company is trying to maintain on its website – as a dessert specialist.

Needless to say, despite the fantastic company and conversation I found in my new friend (who I will most assuredly take on future, hopefully more pleasant restaurant excursions!), we decided to head out and go for a walk instead of contemplating dessert or more coffee.  Truth be told, we just didn’t feel welcome.

The deformity of service in young venues like 16th on Park is not uncommon.  However, it is a strong determinant of success or failure.  I will certainly keep visiting Freestyle Tout and other similar venues where I know the service will be more acceptable.

http://www.16onpark.com.au/

Review of James St Bistro, Fortitude Valley, Q 4006


2010
04.20

It was cool and overcast this afternoon and we’d just dropped some wine off to a colleague and felt peckish.

After parking at the James St Markets we had a quick look around the fresh fruit providore and had a nice coffee at Spoon Cafe.  Ducking across the road, we visited James St Bistro.  It was so nice to hear a familiar voice greeting us at the door – a past colleague and trusted waiter, Anthony.  He wouldn’t admit to it, but he’s an all-round nice guy who would do anything to ensure his customers had a great experience.  Unfortunately we had come just on the cusp of shift changeover and he was home-bound.   After making our fantastic coffees, Anthony headed home and we were served for about an hour by two very competent and happy waitstaff – a perfect juxtaposition for the rainy weather.

The lunch menu is well endowed with a mix of Asian, Australian and more classic European dishes.  There is a great tasting option where you can select either 3, 6 or 8 options from the list, for a set price.  That was immediately the path I wanted to walk down.  The wine list was sufficient, but nothing super special.  So, we ordered.

After almost no time at all, out came the entree:  Fresh Turkish pide (bread) with dukkha, hummus and olive oil ($6.90 pp).  Pleasantly fresh and well presented, it went down a treat with my mid-afternoon G&T.  My dining partner ordered a fantastic fresh juice and was even able to combine his favourite four fruits into the one drink.

While waiting for our mains (and it wasn’t a long wait at all), we had a look around and listened to other customers.  A pleasantly clean and open-faced venue, James St Bistro has a lovely long table with plump, cushiony chairs.  There was almost no noise from the kitchen, only the hum of traffic and chatter in the background.  A well designed place, we thought.

The main meals arrived promptly, but sadly the waiter did not explain the dish again as he presented them.  Call me old fashioned, but I like that aspect of service, particularly because it reminds me of the flavours I’m about to enjoy.

I sampled the tasting plate of 3 options:  peking duck rolls with pickled cucumber and hoisin sauce; chickpea and soybean falafel with tahini yoghurt; marinated olives & grissini ($16.50 for 3).  Each item was well prepared and beautifully presented on the platter, but the olives were a slight let down.  To serve olives alongside other beautiful foods of exquisite taste, I feel that the marinade mixture must express some extra flavour that the olives do not themselves already naturally possess.  Unfortunately, the only flavour we could taste was that of cold-pressed olive oil.  That said, the duck rolls and falafels were simply divine and a perfect combination together.

My dining partner tried the spaghetti al nero which came with 4 large pan friend prawns, garlic, chilli, flat leaf parsley and breadcrumbs.  He noted that while the prawns were perfectly cooked and flavoursome, the dish really needed some kind of liquid or sauce component other than extra virgin olive oil to bring all of the flavours together.  It was a bit too oily (it literally shined on the plate) and perhaps that dulled the flavours of the fresh herbs which should have been more prominant.  Overall, not a bad dish, just not a complete one.

We decided to avoid the delicious cakes in the display cabinet, despite the fact they looked amazing.  We have had too much cake this week, having dined at Freestyle Tout already.

Overall, the service was proficient and kind (but it’d be nice to hear the explanations of dishes as they are served), the food was mostly flavoursome and appropriately priced, but the wine and drinks list could do with some greater attention, especially considering the location.

James St Bistro is located at 39 James St, Fortitude Valley, Queensland, 4006.  Contact 07 3852 5155.  Website: http://www.jamesstreetbistro.com.au

We recommend a visit if you want nice food in a relaxed setting before visiting the Palace Centro Cinemas next door.

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Tasting Note: 02 Raven’s Croft Cab Sauv


2009
12.07

An exceptional wine, I first tried this in 04 when it was still a baby.  In fact, it’s only just becoming an adolescent.

Appearance:  Gorgeous and intensely dark red in colour, solid nearly to the rim, a little sediment has dropped, but not a great deal.

Nose:  Exceptionally dry, crisp, linear, spicy and earthy.  Very restrictive fruit aromas of plum, cherry and mulberry, but these opened up after double decanting.  Still very tight.

Palate:  Excellent acid balance, broad and very ripe tannin structure, rather dry and spicy like its nose with hints of plum, cassis, mulberry, raspberry, black pepper, slightly toasted oak (so it feels).  Rather sublime on the front and back palates, but (like most Cabernent Sauvignon) it does want for something in the mid-palate.  Moderately long finish, this wine will age for a number of years yet, possibly 5-7 years.

92 points.

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Wilson’s Boathouse, Portside, Hamilton QLD


2009
11.23

23 November 2009

Alex and I visited Wilson’s Boathouse at Portside (http://www.wilsonsboathouse.com.au/index.html) in Hamilton, Brisbane this evening for dinner. After a long week, a nice relaxing meal by the river was just what we needed. The weather was perfect outside, the sun slowly setting and the smell of freshly shucked oysters lifted into our noses as we walked in the front door.

A relatively pleasant decor, we were immediately made welcome by a very well preened and highly trained service team. Our waiter was exceptional and didn’t miss a beat. He was (if I may be so bold as to estimate) at least in his 50′s. It’s good to see that the skill and poise of experienced, more mature waiters is starting to be regarded more highly in Brisbane restaurants.

We started with Middle East spiced bread, hommus, dhukkah and extra virgin olive oil, a pina colada, glass of NZ bubbles and a Loire Sauvignon Blanc… mmm good start indeed.

For entree, the chilli dusted fried calamari with stir fry iceberg lettuce, sugar snaps and XO paste and the Hervey Bay seared scallops with pickled watermelon, asian dhukkah, micro salad and spiced pineapple sorbet were a real treat. So refreshingly simple in design, but the flavours were truly awe-inspiring.

For main we shared a mixed seafood paella where the quality of seafood was evident, although it wasn’t as traditional in its cooking as we had anticipated. A little too oily, even against our accompanying wines, but still nice.

For dessert, a mango lassi with coconut cake, mango & orange parfait, coriander fizz and mango tumeric coulis. The coriander fizz was a tiny let-down, because it didn’t actually fizz like a good sherbert should, which probably meant it needs to be made daily. But it was a well presented dessert, albeit in a smaller portion that I had expected. You know me, I love a good dessert.

Overall, the place is definitely worth your time and money and I strongly recommend the cocktails and wine list.